Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate acts primarily as an antioxidant in cosmetic formulations. Ascorbic acid is commonly referred to as vitamin C.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is used in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 3%
Effective effects of ascorbic acid and derivatives are described as follows:
Wrinkle reduction and increased skin relief density and improvement of chronically light-damaged skin due to the stimulation of collagen synthesis and strengthening of the dermis-epidermis connection (papilla index)
Protection against light-related and oxidative skin aging due to antioxidative effects, inhibition of lipid peroxidation, suppression of reactive oxygen species (ROS)
Brightening, bleaching effect on normal skin and pigment spots due to the inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Antibacterial effect by inhibiting sweat-decomposing bacteria and inhibiting acne-causing bacteria
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is stable in aqueous formulations with a pH greater than 7. Vitamin C derivatives in the form of phosphate or glucoside esters show a significantly higher stability compared to ascorbic acid; however, they have a lower bioavailability.
Use concentrations:
-Vitamin – formulations for daily skin care: 0.2 – 2% [1]
– sunscreen: 0.2 – 1% [1]
-Protection against UV-induced skin damage: 0.5-1% [2]
– Skin bleaching effect: 3% [1]
-Antibacterial effect: reduces sweat odor and improves skin appearance for blemishes and acne: 0.2% [3], 5% [4]
[1] Trentmann, B. et al (BASF Aktiengesellschaft): A stable vitamin C derivate for sophisticated skin care formulations with proven effects against free radical injury and for efficient skin whitening. XX. IFSCC Congress 1998, Cannes
[2] Streicher, H.; Trentmann, B. (BASF AG): A stable vitamin C derivate for sophisticated skin protection, penetrates into deeper skin layers, protects against free radical injury: Ascorbyl Phosphate. XXI. IFSCC International Congress 2000, Berlin
[3] Jermann, R.: Vitamin C in Skin Care Cosmetics. Cossma 7 (2004), 42ff.
[4] Klock, J.: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate still has Unexploited Potential in Cosmetics. SFÖW-Journal 130 (2004) 7, 46-56
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